Car Seatbelt Neck Pad Cover
We just returned from a trip down to Florida to see my Mom.
We drove our Prius V and had a great time.
We stopped in Savannah, Georgia, and Charleston, South
Carolina,
and St. Augustine and Port St. Lucie, Florida.
We found some great restaurants and a couple good used book
stores.
We also ended up in an Art Festival in St. Augustine.
There were some great pieces done by local artists.
Anyway, before I ramble on too much, I was going to tell you
why this pattern came about.
My Mother had just gotten a Prius, and she loves hers as
much as we love ours.
They are very comfortable cars, but the seatbelts tend to
rub against our necks.
It could be because we are short, but whatever the reason,
a homemade cover is very soft and works great.
As always, this is another free pattern.
I hope you enjoy it!
Pan
Pattern Notes:
• Ch 2 at the
beginning of the rows, does not count as a Dc, but will be used in the edging.
• I used a Sugar
n Cream cotton worsted weight yarn because it was soft and washable, and it
also stays in place, when fastened to the seatbelt.
• Other yarns
might be softer, but they may also tend to slip-slide down the belt.
• This pattern
fits Seatbelts that are about 1.88” (4.76 cm)
• The yarn does
stretch a bit, and the Velcro can be adjusted to fit tighter or looser.
• You could
adjust the hook size, or add or subtract the number of double crochets in the
base cover, if you want a larger or smaller one.
• You can also
make it longer or shorter by adding or deleting the repeat of rows 16 and
17. Just be sure to end on an even row,
and adjust the edging sc’s to make it even.
Materials:
Sugar
n Cream (WW Med yarn):
Various colors ~ 70 to 80 yds (~1 ½ oz) for each cover
5.00
mm / H hook
No
Snag Velcro ~16” (40.6cm) (That is ~8”
for each side)
Sewing
needle and thread to sew the Velcro onto the cover
Yarn
needle to weave in ends
Gauge:
6 dc and 3 Rows = about 2” Not crucial.
Size: Lying flat: ~ 8 ½” (21.6cm) long and 5 ½” (14cm) wide.
Fits a
seatbelt that is about 1 7/8 inches (4 ¾ cm) in width.
Abbreviations:
Beg = Beginning
Ch(s) = Chain(s)
Dc = Double Crochet
FO = Fasten Off
LDc = Linked Double Crochet
Rnd(s) = Round(s)
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sp(s) = Space(s)
Ss = Slip Stitch
St(s) = Stitch(es)
Tog
= Together
YO = Yarn over
US Terminology
Base of the Cover:
Row 1: Ch 17
(loosely),
Dc in the
back-ridge-bump of 3nd ch from the hook, and in each of the next 11 chs.
Linked-Dc
(Ldc) in the last 3 sts. Turn. (12 dc + 3 Ldc = 15 Total)
To make a Linked Dc:
Insert hook in horizontal bar of the last dc made.
YO and pull up a loop.
Insert hook in
back-ridge-bump of next ch.
YO and pull up a loop. [Now
there should be 3 loops on the hook]
(YO and pull through 2 loops)
2 times. [Linked-Dc made].
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not
count as a dc), Beg-Ldc, and Ldc in next 2 sts.
Dc in the last 12 sts. Turn. (3 Ldc +12 dc)
To make a Beginning
Linked Dc:
Insert hook in 2nd
ch from hook and YO and pull up a loop.
Insert hook in the next dc,
and YO and pull up a loop.
[Now there should be 3 loops
on the hook]
(YO and pull through 2 loops)
2 times. [Beg-Linked-Dc made].
Row 3: Ch 2, Dc in
the first 12 sts. Ldc in the last 3
sts. Turn. (12 dc + 3 Ldc)
Rows 4 - 13: (Repeat Rows 2 and 3) five times.
Row 14: Repeat Row 2 one more time. Turn.
Cushy Ruffle: These
rows will all be worked on the Right Side of the Cover.
Row 15: Ch 1, Skip the first dc. Sc around the post of the 2nd dc.
(Ch 4, Sc
around the post of the next dc) ten times.
Skip the last
3 Linked Dc’s.
Row 16: Ch 4 (to connect rows).
Turn the work
clock-wise 180 degrees, to work around the posts of the next row.
Skip the
first 3 Ldc of the row.
Sc around the
post of the 1st dc, directly above the last st worked.
(Shown before 180 turn, with green
arrow).
(Sc around
the post of the next dc) ten times.
Skip the Ch
2.
Note: The
last stitch of this row will be around the post of the Dc that is next to the
Beg-Ch-2. Only Sc around the Dc. Skip the Ch-2.
Row 17: (Ch 4 (to connect rows).
Skip the
first dc.
Sc around the
post of the 2nd dc.
(Ch 4, Sc
around the post of the next dc) ten times.
Skip the last
3 Linked Dc’s.
Rows 18 – 28: (Repeat
Rows 16 and 17) five times.
Then Repeat Row 16 one more time.
Do Not Turn.
Note: You will be in the correct position to
work along the side-edge of the 14 Dc Base-Rows.
Edging:
Working along
the side of the rows:
Ch 1, Sc in
the first corner hole.
[Mark this sc with a safety pin or piece of thread]
Continue to Sc in each space along this side, up to the top
corner st.
Note: There
should be 2 sc’s for each dc along this side-edge.
By single crocheting in each space, it should
result in 27 sc’s (in all) to the top, but not including the top corner st.
Continue
across the top edge with:
3 Sc in that
corner st.
Sc across next 13 sts.
3 Sc in the
next corner st.
Continue
working even on the other side-edge rows:
Sc in each
space.
(Be careful
not to miss stitches.
There should
be 27 sc’s to the bottom – not counting the corners).
Continue
across the bottom edge in the 2 free loops of the foundation chain of Row 1:
Note: Do
not miss the first stitch, it may be hidden.
If you work
over the beg-yarn-end, you will not need to weave it in later.
3 Sc in the
corner st.
Sc across next 13 sts.
3 Sc in the
corner st.
Join to the
first (marked) st.
FO, and weave
in the ends.
(27 + 19 + 27
+ 19 = 92)
Finishing:
Measure and cut Velcro to fit over the top of the
Linked-Dc’s.
(I used about 8”).
Snip the corners of the Velcro to round them out, so there
will be no rough parts.
Pin it in place.
And with needle and thread, sew it securely.
(I used white sewing thread to match the color of the
Velcro).
When sewing it on, be careful not to catch the loops on the
front side.
